Having graduated from the Parsons MFA program in 2018 and founded her eponymous label just a year later, Chinese designer Rui Zhou now splits her time between Shanghai and New York. Inspired by the ‘poetic elegance between skin and garment,’ her designs use layers of overlapping oval and circular cut-outs, to explore the duality of strength and fragility. Mixing knitted fabrics and dip dye technology she creates bodysuits, tops, sleeves and leggings, in delicate muted tones that both reveal and amplify the body.
Rui Zhou pieces together memories of home in this collection. The natural beauty of water, light, shadow and dust conveyed in the textured details of her delicate, yet deceptive creations are splintered observations and fragments of the familiar held together to form a whole. Following the gentle contours of the body, shapes are suspended with silk string and beads, designs are meticulously detailed with jade and pearl, while her signature cut-outs, edged with lockstitch, reveal all yet simultaneously nothing. With crochet still central, this season sees weightier fabrics and a more vibrant palette of blazing reds, seafoam greens, yellows and blacks with a focus on styling and wearability.